Thursday, 12 August 2010

Greetings from 広島

I can't believe it's been almost 2 weeks since we got to Japan. And only 6 days left!

I left off at Monday, I think. We went to Nara by train, took us only 45 minutes. The scenery on the way was great; lots of mountains and nice little villages. We stayed at Nakata B&B, a cute little traditional B&B run by a 60-year-old man named Nakata-san. There were tatami mats on the floors, low tables and we slept on futons (which are much more comfortable than they look!).

Nakata-san told us there was a candle festival in Nara that week, which is held once a year, so at 7 we were at the park where the paths and ponds were lit with literally thousands of candles. It was really gorgeous and a great way to see Nara for the first time! In Nara park there are about 1000 deer that are considered the 'messengers of the gods'. They walk around free and are really cute! We saw some on that night. On the way back to the hotel we had nice big bowls of udon noodles in soup. And at a little souvenir stand I had my first conversation all in Japanese! The lady asked me if the souvenirs could be wrapped together, I said that was fine, she told me the price and I paid her. Short, but I was so proud of having achieved it all in Japanese! I swear I have forgotten most I have learnt, because half the time you need to ask more complicated stuff anyway. XD

The next day, Thursday, I had breakfast downstairs (banana, orange and a chocolate bun served by Nakata-san) and I chatted with a French girl and her mother that were staying at the B&B as well. At 10:00 I left to go view Nara, agreeing to meet Eddie somewhere on the way (he didn't feel like going out yet). But after walking for 45 mins, my camera showed the low battery sign! So I walked back to the hotel, changed the battery and walked back into town, Eddie coming along that time. We then proceeded to walk for another 5 hours, I swear we saw most of Nara. At some point I had the feeling we had walked to another city. XD It's a good thing I took a lot of walks in the weeks leading up to this holiday, to break in my new hiking shoes, or I'd never have been able to do it. Poor Eddie wasn't in such good shape, though, he kept complaining I was like his mum, who also always wants to walk everywhere on holiday. XD

We first went to a temple called Shinyakushiji. It proved immensely difficult to find, tucked away in a residential area with streets so narrow I'd be surprised if my car could turn a corner there. We asked an old lady the way and she started explaining it to some random guy who walked by, who then took us all the way to the temple! That was so nice of him! The temple itself is very small, but very valuable; it is one of the oldest temples that are left in Japan. It was built in the 8th century. Inside are 12 statues of demons guarding a Buddha statue.

Then we walked through the forest to Kasuga grand shrine, which is surrounded by hundreds of stone lanterns donated by people. We walked up the hill where we saw more deer (some were going into a souvenir shop XD) and then to the highest temple, the name of which I can't remember right now, but from where we had an amaaaazing view over Nara.

We walked down the hill to Todaiji temple; the largest wooden building in the world (and it's enormous, even though it's now only 2/3 the size it used to be) containing the largest bronze Buddha statue in the world. It was truly impressive and dwarfing being in there, even though it was crowded. There are some other statues in there that are also huge. And there is a pole with a hole through it, lots of people were squeezing themselves through the hole, must bring good luck or something. I didn't go through; it didn't look like my big gaijin hips would have fit. XD

We then walked back to the hotel, and 5 minutes after we got back it started pouring rain and there was a massive thunderstorm!! I was so glad we got back before that broke loose. But the French people from that morning had to catch the train, so they were worried. Luckily it stopped pouring after 30 minutes, so they went to catch the train and we went to get food (McDonalds again, Eddie didn't feel like noodles and I didn't feel like anything really). We had to walk back in the rain, but we had borrowed an umbrella at the hotel.

Wehn we got back to the hotel, I got a Japanese lesson from Nakata-san. He taught me how to say 'difficult' (which is a very difficult word: muzukashii) and how to explain my sister is the oldest daughter, I am the second daughter and my brother is the first son.

The next day, Wednesday, we actually wanted to see more of Nara (there was one temple I wanted to see that we hadn't yet) but the forecast predicted more rain, so we decided to catch the train to Kobe while it was still dry. It took us about 1.5 hour to get to Kobe, having to change trains at Osaka. The hotel in Kobe was almost impossible to find with the map they had on their website. After asking a few people, we finally got there.

After checking in, we walked for 15 minutes to the ShinKobe station to reserve seats on the shinkansen, as we knew the next period would get busy because of the Obon festival which starts tomorrow. But all the trains were full! We could only get a seat reservation on the train from Kyoto to Tokyo, but there were 2 other trains we wanted to get a reservation for. So that was pretty bad. >< On the way back to the hotel we visited a shrine called Ikura Jinja. It was very nice and peaceful there, there was a little creek, so we sat there for a while resting our tired legs and praying for a good trip. We also went to Tokyu Hands, where I also got the kitty bank. This time I got some cute bento stuff (yes, there's some there for you as well, Marlies!). In the evening I felt like another bowl of udon, so I asked the lady from the hotel and she actually walked me there! The restaurant had a large watermill out front, really cool. The neighbourhood the hotel was in has a few houses left from when the Dutch and Portuguese did a lot of trade here, so some actually look European. I had another stomach ache in the evening, probably from the stress from not getting any seats on the train, so I went to bed early, around 10. I dreamt horribly; that I killed Cailleach, and after that I couldn't sleep anymore, so I was awake by 6. So all in all Kobe wasn't that good an experience. In the morning we got to the shinkansen station early and had to wait 45 minutes for a train to Hiroshima, which was packed! Because we didn't have a seat reservation, we had to go into the non-reserved area. Well, we were in the doorway actually. Luckily Bonny's suitcase is very firm, so I sat on that for the entire 1.5 hour. The trip to Kyoto on Sunday, in the middle of the Obon period, will probably be worse. >< We got to the hostel, Hana hostel Hiroshima, and we checked into the nicest little traditional Japanese rooms. Can't believe it's in a backpackers hostel! It has its own little entryway where the toilet is, before you go into the room itself. In the room is a little side room with a sink and mirror. After settling in I went to view Hiroshima castle. Eddie stayed behind, he was too tired. The poor guy isn't used to walking so much, and traveling around so much. Anyway, the castle. Of course the original castle was destroyed in the atom bomb, so this is a replica, but it looks just like the old one. Inside there are old samurai clothes, swords, papers and letters. From the top you have a great view over the city. You could see the A-bomb dome (the building the atom bomb exploded over and was thus spared complete destruction, so today it stands just as it did right after) and Miyajima (where we're going tomorrow). Wehn I got back to the hotel room the news was on; apparently there's a tyfoon over the north and middle of Japan, which is why there was so much rain! Luckily we are to the south of it; here it was just very hot and sunny. ^^ Oh and on the way to the castle I passed a bookstore. So I went in and bought a children's book, which has very easy Japanese; so easy for me to be able to read. But when I got back to the hotel and looked at the text better, I realised most of the story has the exact same lines. >< There are only about 3 or 4 different lines in the book. So yeah... But the pictures look funny. 

And now it's about 7pm. Tomorrow we are going to Miyajima; the one place I most want to see in all of Japan! There is a torii (vermillion Japanese shrine gate) in the water there. The Japanese consider it one of their 3 most beautiful sights. My blog has the shrine at the top. Ever since I first saw this place on pictures, I've wanted to go there, and tomorrow we finally will!! I can't believe I'm so close to it right now... ^^

The day after it's viewing the Peace and Memorial park and the A-bomb dome. That will be pretty sad. :( And then on Sunday we are traveling to Kyoto. So keep your fingers crossed for us the train won't be too packed... Which it probably will be. XD More updates from me from Kyoto!!

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